Warm nights in the garden watching the sunset. A hefty casserole seems out of place on the dinner table. Just as we move to lighter dishes of fish and salads, or prepare to barbecue all summer long, our wines for summer should change to reflect the seasons.
Match your summer flavours with my guide to what’s hot to drink when it’s hot
Aperitif
Britain’s favourite fizz du jour is Prosecco. There’s even been talk of a worldwide shortage of this Italian sparkler due to the increased demand. It’s light and fresh, fruity and easy to drink it’s popularity looks far from waining. Want to get ahead of the curve? Move over Prosecco, there’s a new Italian on the block. Franciacorta.
What’s the difference? Prosecco is made from Glera grapes in the north eastern region of Veneto and given its fizz by a secondary fermentation in a large tank. Franciacorta, made in Lombardy’s Brescia, in the centre of northern Italy, adds sparkle to the blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Nero and Pinot Bianco (the Italian versions of Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc) in the “traditional” way, with a secondary fermentation in the bottle, leading to it becoming known as Italy’s Champagne. Expect to see more of this classy number appearing in wine stores as it’s fashion stock grows. It demands a little more attention than Prosecco, so serve it first and move on to the cheaper Prosecco as the party wears on.
Consider sherry too. The ultra-dry styles of Fino and Manzanilla sherries are best served extremely chilled, and drunk within a day or so of opening. The salty flavours of the sea in each glass make them a perfect partner for garden snacking on olives, crab, anchovies, jamón Iberico or almonds. I’m on a mission to get Britain to fall back in love with this wine style, which some say was first invented for and by the Brits in southern Spain.
Fish and Salads
Summer is not the time for heavy oak-aged Chardonnays or more voluptuous wine styles like Viognier or Gewürztraminer. Britain’s favourite white, Sauvignon Blanc, comes into it’s own here, with it’s green grassy notes of gooseberry providing a great pairing with “hard to match” foods such as tomato and asparagus.
Create a more local flavour by converting your garden party guests to the joys of English wine. Delicious alternatives to the Loire and Marlborough classic come from right on your doorstep. Look for 2014 vintages (a brilliant year for the local winemakers) of varietal or blended wines containing Bacchus. This Germanic grape contains just as much zing and herbaceous oomph to oust Sauvignon Blanc from many occasions.
Chardonnay still sells more than Sauvignon here in Berkshire, so try a Pinot Blanc as a slightly lighter alternative. Alsatian and Italian (and English) varieties will be dry and full bodied with flavours of apple, light florals and occasionally peach and minerals that make them as good with food as classic Chardonnays. Chilled Chablis comes into it’s own here too for those who can’t resist the classics.
Consider also Grüner Veltliner from Austria, with it’s notes of white pepper, citrus, mineral and peach, France’s Picpoul-de-Pinet, and don’t rule out a dry Riesling. These will also work really well with grilled and oily fish such as sardines or mackerel.
Barbecue
Until you’ve slapped a hunk of beef on the barbecue, summer hasn’t really arrived. If you’re planning a healthy dousing with sweetish barbecue sauce, then Californian Zinfandel is the way to go – it often appears to be sweet, given it’s chocolatey flavours, and riper versions have some residual sugar. The best examples come from the area around Lodi.
For those who prefer their meat a little purer, chargrilled notes work brilliantly with southern Rhone and Languedoc wines such as Minervois, or Italian wines such as Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. If you’re opting for lighter meats such as pork, sausages or chicken, don’t be afraid to try a Rosé wine. Robust styles, such as Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo (made from the Montepulciano grape) provide a half way house between red and rosé wines. They are worth seeking out if you fancy something different. Spanish rosés from Navarra based on Garnacha, or those from Provence and Languedoc can also work well.
Staying with Spain, they’re happy to chill even hearty reds to beat the heat of the sun. While I find super-chilled reds lack some intensity of flavour, younger Riojas and Monastrells do work well in this way. Just take them out of the fridge around 30 minutes before you intend to serve. Australian Tarrango is a red style that was specifically developed for chilling. With it’s juicy style of bold cranberry and spice flavours, it’s worthy of a try.
Heather
