As autumn looms, and the nights draw in, things take on a cosier mood in the kitchen. We look forward to mushrooms aplenty, and game dishes such as duck, venison and pheasant.
My favourite red at this time of year has always been Pinot Noir. This noble red grape reaches its finest (and most expensive) expressions in France’s Burgundy region, and is also a key component in many wonderful sparkling wines from Champagne, Franciacorta, and further afield. In fact, there is more Pinot Noir grown in the Champagne region than in Burgundy itself. You’ll also find great Pinot Noir from the Sancerre region of France (much more commonly known for its white Sauvignon Blanc wines), and some of it is even transformed into stunning pink wines.
Thanks to the film Sideways, a Hollywood movie that sung the variety’s praises, demand has grown in the early part of the 21st Century. But Pinot Noir is thought to have existed in some form or other for around 2000 years. It’s name is said to come from the resemblance of the tightly packed grape bunches to the shape of pine cones. It’s known as a finicky grape to grow. It is susceptible to spring frosts and its thin skin can mean grapes get sunburn in particularly hot climates, while it’s also not a fan of too much rain which can cause rot. A bit like Goldilocks’ porridge, the conditions for growing Pinot Noir have to be just right. This, perhaps explains why it often produces some very expensive wines indeed. For example, a Cotes-de-Nuits wine from Domaine Romanée-Conti sold for the equivalent of over $14000 (US Dollars) per bottles in Hong Kong in July 2014. Fear not. It is still possible to enjoy great Pinot Noir without taking out a second mortgage.
Known for flavours of strawberry, perhaps cherry or other red berries, its soft tannins and refreshing acidity, it’s an easy grape to like. Don’t imagine, though, that this is just a simple fruity red. Depending on where your bottle is from, you’ll find a range of autumnal flavours, ranging from savoury truffle, mushroom or even undergrowth. Generally light, to medium bodied, and a far paler red than most Cabernet Sauvignons or Syrahs, it can seem a more delicate or even esoteric wine. It is worth trying as different styles to find your particular favourite, since it’s one of the most versatile reds when it comes to food matching. It’s a great wine to choose in a restaurant for that reason, since Pinot can pair perfectly with a variety of fish, meat and vegetarian dishes at the same table.
We don’t have the space for the book it would to detail all the regions growing Pinot Noir and their variations. Several volumes could be written just on the regions of Burgundy’s Cote d’Or. I’ve highlighted a few of my favourites, along with their best food matches.
Light, and inexpensive styles can be found from Romania, Moldova and other eastern European countries. These go particularly well with rabbit, or cold meats and autumnal terrines. If you’re adding garlic, or serving spiced charcuterie such as salami, you won’t want to break the bank. Start here and you’ll find drinkable wines for around £5. Spend a couple of pounds more and you can also put a basic Burgundy on your table.
Fruity and almost sweet, slightly “jammy” styles can be found from Chile and California. These can range from around £7-15. Ideal with seared salmon or tuna dishes, they also pair wonderfully with autumnal duck or partridge dishes, particularly those with a fruity or sweeter sauce. These work really well with Chinese styles of duck and pork dishes too.
Moving up in price from £15 – £50 and beyond, Burgundy areas such as Gevrey-Chambertin and Nuits-Saint-Georges, or wines from Oregon’s Willamette Valley or New Zealand’s Central Otago region, become silky and elegant, and with the right vintage conditions, can even be rich and full bodied. They’re not only capable of ageing, some may demand it to soften and be at their best, when they’ll develop more savoury flavours. These wines pair perfectly with autumnal fare, such as mushroom risotto, pigeon or partridge. My personal favourite pairing is venison loin served pink with a wine sauce, of course made from Pinot Noir. These wines will also take you through to Christmas, working brilliantly with roast turkey, beef wellington, roast hams and soft cheeses.
There’s a Pinot Noir out there for every budget and every palate, so what are you waiting for?Peruse the Pinots till you find your perfect pairing.
By Heather Harrison
